Nong Khai

Nong Khai—And the Concrete Theme Park

Guidebooks often refer to locations far from alluring beaches or the glitzy neon of big cities as “provincial backwaters.” Sometimes, however, these out-of-the-way places provide fun surprises. Nong Khai, a skinny northern province fronting the Mekong River is one such place.

The capital city, Nong Khai, has a population of less than 30,000 a “beach” along the Mekong River (dry season only), and is a gateway to Laos via a quick trip over the Friendship Bridge, which opened in 1994. While the shopping for Laotian and Chinese souvenirs is fun, thanks to a reciprocal trading agreement allowing merchants laden with goods to visit Nong Khai or Vientiane, Laos for up to three days, the big surprise is one of the strangest theme parks in the whole world.

Wat Khaek, also known as Sala Kaew Ku is filled with huge cement statues and figures from Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Immense gods, demons and Buddhas, some over 20 meters tall, pepper the garden-like setting. The most spectacular at 25 meters is a naga, a seven-headed serpent with an image of Buddha resting in the protective umbrella of its necks.

The sculptures were supposedly created by unskilled workers under the park’s founder, Luang Puu (Venerable Grandfather) Bunleua Surirat during the late 1970’s. The work was labor-intensive, whoever fashioned them. All are fascinating. While the multi-headed naga may be the tallest, a Buddha with the girth of Trafalgar Square must be the heaviest. Menacing, wall-eyed demons compete with dozens of serene statues sporting enigmatic smiles that would do the Mona Lisa proud.

Nong Khai is the termination of the Friendship Highway (Highway 2). There is no problem getting there, even from Bangkok. Udon Thani is a pleasant one-hour flight and rental car agencies (including Budget) are available at the airport. The border town, with its theme park is only 55 kilometers directly north. Air-con busses and a train also leave from Bangkok.

Accommodations range from quaint guesthouses to luxurious hotels. An economic choice is Mut Mee Guest House at 1111/4 Kaew Worawut Rd (no telephone), in a mango orchard overlooking the Mekong River. An Englishman and his Thai wife own the rooms, which include bamboo huts. For travelers needing Western bathrooms and luxuries, the Mekong Royal Nong Khai (042-420024) has all the amenities. It is located along the river near the Friendship Bridge.

For something different, the Laotian style architecture of the northern town, its shopping, views of the river and its strange park make a welcome getaway from Bangkok or the beaches.

NONG KHAI

Fly to Udon Thani via Thai Airways (3 flights per day). Rent a car at the airport and ask for directions.

Return to Travel Page. Return to Home Page.

Email Webmaster: thaimexico@gmail.com

Last updated: April 18, 2006.