Chatuchak—the Mother of All Markets

Imagine over 8,000 booths and vendors jammed into the area of three football fields and visited by the population of a small city. That’s what happens at the Chatuchak Market every weekend. Everything from spirit houses to antiques, from clothes, to plants and foods can be purchased here. Want an opium pipe? No problem. Need some plates and flatware for that new apartment? It’s here. You’ll find them and hundreds of other items here—including folk art from the Thai hill tribes.

The market, not far from the northern bus terminal, is easy to get to. BTS SkyTrain is a good bet. The main line ends at Mo Chit. Sit on the left side of the train and the market will slide by as you pull into the station. A taxi from the Silom area costs about 90 baht, plus an extra 40 to go via the expressway—a small, added expense for the time saved.  Several buses also stop near the market. 

All the usual knock offs, Calvin Klein, Versace and others can be found among the clothing stalls. The prices are lower than in the downtown outdoor markets, but it’s the variety of items is what makes Chatuchak stand out. The flower and plant section is large, as is the live animal area. Miniature Doberman Pincers compete for attention with guppies and hamsters.

Eventually, the stress of pushing, shoving and buying will get to you. It is time to rest. Thai food stalls are present everywhere and provide the typical inexpensive, filling lunch. The meal can be taken in more pleasant surroundings at stalls on the road beside Chatuchak Park, if one wishes to take the hike. However, another even more tranquil oasis is in the “Dream Section” of the marketplace.

The Toh-Plue Restaurant serves delicious fare at reasonable prices. The ambiance is pleasant, plant-filled and cool under the quietly busy ceiling fans. Most dishes run between 60 and 120 baht. The spirited tom yam kung is as jammed with shrimp as the nearby market alleyways. It goes down well with an icy beer. Afterwards, the Dream Section is worth a browse. The shops have names (Orchid Gold) and the offerings are more upscale. Designer items, exotic papers and even spirit houses are for sale.

But whether one goes to Chatuchak on a buying spree, or just for a diverting and hectic day out, the market is a fun experience. And, who knows? If that knick-knack you just had to have doesn’t look so good at home, you can give it to your Aunt Hilda next Christmas.

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© 2003 Michael Williams. All Rights Reserved.

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Last updated: May 5, 2001.