Wat Arun-a river runs by it

Wat Arun, named for Aruna, the Indian god of dawn, is one of several Thai temples near the Chao Phraya River. It’s beauty and spectacular view of the waterway make a great excuse for excursion on the River of Kings.

The architecture of the popular temple is so unique it not only graces Thai coinage, but it is also used in the Tourism Authority of Thailand logo. The Khmer-style main prang (tower) is 67 meters (220 feet) high and provides an eye-catching photo opportunity from many spots along the river. Built in the first half of the 19^th Century by Kings Rama II and Rama III, the central tower symbolizes the mythical Mount Meru of Hindu-Buddhist cosmology. Four minor prangs at each corner of the wat seem to accentuate the height of the main tower.

Up close, the brick structure is covered with a façade of broken porcelain, which bears study. The famous King Mongkut (Rama IV) is responsible for adding the ceramic ornamentation, which originally came from the ballast holds of Chinese trading ships. From a distance, the porcelain seems to glitter in the sun. Up close, one can distinguish the red, pink, blue and yellow floral designs against the white background. The flowers depicted are said to be reminders of the vegetation of Mount Meru.

Tourists can only climb to the second level of the main tower but a walk around the prang offers absorbing views of the river and its never-ending traffic. The multi-coloured tiers of kneeling demons who seem to be supporting the upper levels of the terraces are fun to examine. They are also covered with porcelain chips. See if you can find the half human and half bat kinnari demons.

The entrance to the wat, at a riverboat ferry pier is touristy. Men with snakes and girls in traditional regalia wait hopefully for Farang to take their pictures—for tips, of course. The exit from the main towers leads potential buyers past a gauntlet of T-shirt and souvenir shops. However, there is no obnoxious cry for the tourist dollar and the wat should not be missed because of this minor commercialism.

The Chao Phraya Express boats (8 baht) can be taken from several locations along the river. Get off at the Tien Pier—the same stop one uses to visit Wat Pho. At the same pier, ferryboats leave every few minutes for the quick cross-river journey directly to Wat Arun (4 baht). Allow an hour for a walking tour. Sandwich lunch along the river between visits to both wats and you have a cultural day trip worth talking about back home.

WAT ARUN

Arun Amarin Road, Thon Buri

Buses: 57, 83

Chao Phraya Express stop: Tien, then across the river by ferry.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily

Admission: 20 baht

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Last updated: January 8, 2006.